An old proverb says that the olive is like a mother, and the vine like a daughter-in-law. If you do not tend to the vine in time, it will run away. The people of Pakoštane knew this well, which is why they always faithfully returned to their vineyards. The same as the rest of Dalmatia, the Pakoštane region suffered from the relentless grapevine downy mildew disease in the past century, which devastated vineyards across the region. The consequences of that time are still felt and the region never fully recovered from the wine crisis of the last century. Today, some families continue the winemaking tradition, cultivating indigenous grape varieties such as maraština, debit and plavina. The largest vineyards in the area are located in Sokoluša, stretching from Vrana towards Kakma, and can be seen while passing the cycling trails.
Even in the Middle Ages, winemaking played an important role in this region. In the past century, viticulture was a traditional occupation in the Pakoštane area, with most people producing wine for their own needs. However, a vineyard required a servant, not a master. People would set out at dawn, whether on foot or by cart, to toil in the vineyards until the intense midday heat drove them to rest. Vineyard work lasted year-round: in winter, the vines were pruned, in April, the soil was tilled deeply, in early summer, excess shoots were removed, and the vines were tied to posts to support their heavy fruits. In August, scarecrows were placed in the vineyards to ward off birds, with starlings posing the biggest threat, especially in this region, given the nearby Vrana Lake, a natural bird habitat. Grape harvest took place in late September. In accordance with traditional customs, winegrowers had their own holidays depending on their work in vineyards, so an old saying goes: “Saint Cosmas and Damian pour wine into the barrel”. Harvest preparations were extensive. In September, the Pakoštane waterfront was filled with wooden barrels soaking in seawater to seal them against leaks. The harvest itself was a special event, filled with a creative buzz. In Pakoštane, grapes were plucked, not harvested. They were stomped in the fields and transported by carriages to the cellars, where fermentation lasted 8 – 10 days before the wine was transferred to barrels. The leftover grape pomace was used to make rakija. The first wine was traditionally tasted on St Martin’s Day, 11 November. Since wine was scarce, Pakoštane locals diluted it with water – thus making bevanda.
The people of Pakoštane are known for their love of good wine. Even today, in Vulin’s wine cellar in Bužak, you can find the names of debtors carved in stone – reminders of how much they still owe for the wine they had enjoyed. The region also produced prošek, a traditional Dalmatian dessert wine. It was rare and reserved for special occasions – Christmas, Easter, the birth of a child, or a son’s wedding.
Zavaljun – a traditional Dalmatian recipe prepared for frail children and the sick to restore strength. Egg yolk was beaten with sugar until fully dissolved, then a drop or two of prošek was added, depending on how much was available. The prošek enhanced the flavour, while also boosting the child’s or sick man’s health and immunity.
Today, this tradition continues through the passion of local winemakers who produce high-quality wines while preserving the region’s heritage. You can purchase wine in local taverns, at market stalls, from local farms, or at a nearby winery on the way to Vrana Lake. The winery also offers tastings of various wines in a charming wine cellar setting.
